Saturday, January 16, 2016

A Review of SK and Williams Sockets

Williams MSB-20HRC Socket Set

I decided that I needed a new set of sockets for Christmas. I have used a great set of Craftsman sockets for more than 20 years. They have been good to me, but they are 12 point sockets and I always wanted a 6 point set. So I decided it was time to upgrade.

I'm not a full time mechanic who really stresses and bangs up his tools.  I'm a solid hobbyist level mechanic. I don't use my tools every day but I work my on own modern motorcycles, I occasionally restore vintage motorcycles and I work on my own vintage car: so I do require solid quality tools. For tools that I frequently use, I am willing to get top quality stuff. I am a careful tool user. If I don't have the right tool, I will buy it. I tend to clean my vehicles before working on them, I read the manual and I use a torque wrench on everything that I can find a torque specification for. And if my wrenches are dirty or greasy at the end of a project I wipe them off. So that's some perspective on this reviewer.

It is important to note that I have no way to evaluate one of the most important factors of a socket: how it applies torque to the bolt. The shape and hardness of the interfacing surfaces are not easy to measure. Standards like these cover those factors:

Metric socket internal opening design: SAE MA 4534A
Metric socket opening tolerances: ISO 691:2005
Sockets and handles: ANSI B107.5
Minimum hardness and torsional strength : ISO 1711-1:2015

I haven't seen any tools that claim compliance with all these standards in their catalogs, I'm just pointing out that standards like this exist. If someone wanted to test the interfacing surfaces of a socket, I would start by reading those standards.

My evaluation is is a simple visual review of the socket's fit and finish and of how it attaches to the ratchet handle.

I looked at some reviews on the web, I searched the Garage Journal Forum, I read Amazon reviews and asked some knowledgable friends.

I wanted something at least a step up from my old Sears Craftsman sockets. First I looked at Snap-on. And while they are probably great, the price stopped me in my tracks. While I respect Snap-on tools, I personally don't think they are always worth the price for a hobbyist.

So after eliminating Snap-on I decided to try SK. Many guys on the garage Journal Forum liked them and my friends really liked them. But I research indicated that SK has gone through a couple phases. Supposedly the old stuff made when when my friends bought theirs, was really good quality. But sometime around 2010 they went bankrupt and there were quality problems. But I read that the quality went back up after they were bought out of bankruptcy and that things were good now.


SK Socket Review

For Christmas I asked my wife to order a set of SK sockets from a reliable internet tool vendor that I specified. I asked her to order the SK 3919 19 piece metric 3/8" drive 6 point set. While the SK catalog touts that they test their 'SuperKrome" for corrosion with ASTM Salt Fog procedures, they do not cite a specific standard nor do they actually claim they pass the testing. There is no mention of these sockets meeting any dimensional standard in the SK catalog. The set includes all the sockets from 6mm to 24mm. It was $105 plus tax.

Christmas arrived and I was excited when I opened the heavy package.
The SK set came in a plastic bag and seemed not to have any oil or other coating on them.
The inside of the sockets were randomly finished: Some were chrome inside and some had a matt silver finish.



So whats up with that? Maybe chrome or matt silver inside doesn't make any difference... but the randomness of this didn't give me confidence the tolerances will be right or the heat treatment, etc.

I'll also note the flashing inside by the square drive receptacle was also ugly on some of the sockets. And the detents in the square receptacle that hold the socket to the ratchet handle seemed cut unevenly.

Frankly, I didn't consider it at all. I put the sockets on my gravel driveway, snapped a few pictures with my phone for reference and packed them up to be returned to the vendor.

Interestingly, when I posted about this experience on the Garage Journal forum, a few people agreed with me, but a vocal group complained that the sockets were fine and that I was overly concerned about the random finish inside the sockets. Some claimed that the random finish was the result of a change in the production a couple years ago, and newer sockets with the matt interior finish are mixed with the older ones. It was said that the matt silver finish was silver paint to protect the sockets interior from corrosion.

So... I considered a bit and decided to give the SK Tool company another try. I ordered an other identical set from a different online vendor for $109. And...
The new set was just as crappy as the first. Now, these all did have the matt interior finish, so at least that was consistant. But the other flaws were present again on this set: Here are some of them:

Note the square drive receptacle on the left socket is poorly formed.

 Here is a closeup. Horrible.

Check out the different heights on the detents on these two sockets. Also check out the poor chrome finish. These are fresh out of the plastic bag SK packed them in.

And compare the detents on these two sockets. Would the left one even hold the socket on the ratchet?

 If the details I can see on the SK sockets are this bad, what should I expect of the details I cannot see? Needless to say, I returned this set.

So, my review of the SK sockets? Both sets I bought were poorly made. Don't buy them, because there are better options. Frankly, I wouldn't buy them at any price.

Williams Socket Review

Williams is the "Industrial" brand from Snap-on. The sockets are very similar to the Snap-on ones. Note the set I chose is "Made in the USA". Some Williams sockets are domestically made and there are others that are made outside the USA.

I chose the Williams MSB-20HRC 20 piece metric 3/8" drive 6 point set and ordered it from a large online vendor for $96. Interestingly, Williams cites the ANSI B107.5 standard for the sockets on the catalog page for this set.  They do not cite any corrosion testing standard. The set includes a 5.5mm socket and then all the sockets from 6mm to 24mm. The set came in a simple cardboard box and was well oiled.



The exterior finish is very nice. In some light look they look to have a tint of nickel coloring. Generally everything was very crisp. Some of the edges, like around the square drive receptacle might be a bit sharp. Nice interior finish. The most notable imperfection is a light ring around the circumference of single socket, probably from rolling during manufacturing or storage or something. I did note the "Williams" script on a few of the sockets was done in a different style on a few of the sockets. They must be phasing in a new logo.

There are no signs of surface imperfections or rust. The inside of the sockets look smooth and nice and clean. (No sign of any SK style paint inside.)

A Close up of the inside of the Williams sockets. Nice and crisp. You can see the oil coating in the pictures.


Interestingly every socket has a different exterior circumference. This implies that Williams uses separate tooling for each socket size (the SK sockets had a least two that were the same external diameter).


The sockets have clean and sharp square drive receptacles. Every detent is the same and nicely cut. Chrome is good and has a light coat of oil.

So, my review of the Williams sockets? Very nice. They are the step up from my old sockets. They are what I expected for the price.

___________________________________________
More information from the Garage Journal Forum:

Interesting comparison between Snap-on and Williams sockets

Another review of that includes SK sockets and sees some of the same quality problems

Friday, October 16, 2015

The Concrete Garage Floor: Tiles, Epoxy, or Sealing? Densifier and Penetrating Sealer.

The floor after densifier and penetrating sealer.

My garage floor is new 300PSI concrete and it is 4 months old.

I spent a lot of time trying to decide how to finish it and was helped by many people on the Garage Journal forum. I also got 3 quotes from respected local vendors.

Originally I had intended to merely spray the concrete with a densifier and to declare it done. But the garage remodel ended up being more extensive than I expected and the workers got overspray and drywall mud on the floor that needed to be at least cleaned off somehow for me to be happy.

Things I considered: Plastic tile (Racedeck), epoxy (various products, polyaspartic (HP Sparta-Flex), polishing and sealing (local vendor), densifier only, densifier and coating densifier and penetrating sealer.

My requirements:
I want a coating to protect and seal the floor. Easy cleanup is desired. Non-slip is desired. maximum durability is desired. I like how cement looks, but am ok with coatings too. No special appearance is desired. No color or color chips.

I’m a motorcyclist and vintage car fan. I have a bunch of motorcycles and a motorcycle lift. Some of the bikes have worn rusted and sharped edged center stands. I am not going to use pads to protect the floor from the stands or lift.

I am open to doing the work myself it is easy. I would much prefer to have a professional do the work if I can be confident of the quality of the results. But I would be upset if I paid a good amount to have the floor professionally coated and then to have it chip, crack, bubble, scrape off or otherwise fail.

Plastic tile:
I got a sample of RaceDeck and parked my 150cc vespa scooter on it. It scuffed the first time I parked on it. I continued to use it for 3 months and it looks like battle zone. Rejected.

Epoxy / Polyaspartic:
I really wanted this to work and I have good friends who swear by it. But I was really concerned it would scrape up. When the cement was 30 days old I called 3 epoxy vendors. One of the three seemed very knowledgable, did polyaspartic coating, had excellent yelp reviews, and said I should wait much longer before coating the floor. I waited 3 months and called him back. He said it was still early but he would come take a look. He put a meter on the floor and said it was still pretty wet: he said he could do it, but he would need to use a special primer. But then when he bid the job, next to the 15 year warrantee he hand wrote: “5 years for moisture”. Hmm, not encouraging. He also had a nice sample tile with the finish on it, and when I went to put the scooter on it, he said, “Oh, that will scratch it!” And it did immediately scrape the clear coat off the chips on the sample.

Then my buddy sent me some pictures of his 6 month old epoxy floor that he loves… and I saw a crack in the epoxy running all the way across the floor. I said, what’s that? Apparently he hadn’t noticed. I hadn’t realize that cracks might propagate through the epoxy. And given the floor is new, who knows how it will settle. There are some small cracks in it already. So, between the moisture concerns, center stand scraping and cracks: I rejected the epoxy / polyaspartic option.

(Note: If I was doing the epoxy myself for a modest price, I might be ok with some scraping and cracks. But for a $1800 pro installation on a 300 sqare foot floor, and concerns about moisture… ah... No.)

Polishing and Sealing:
I had a well known professional come and quote polishing and sealing the floor. This firm does many of the local restaurants and bars. I was concerned about this from the beginning, as a polish is really just a cosmetic process and it is fairly easy to mar polished concrete. So again, this ended up being about the top coating. I ended up having many of the same concerns about the clear top coating as I did about the epoxy coatings, as discussed above. I saw many beautiful surfaces in local restaurants with polished concrete floors, but I also saw many that were peeling and a mess. Additionally, the cost was high, at least from this vendor. But these discussions pushed me toward doing the floor myself.

Sealers and Coatings:
When I looked at sealers and coatings, I quickly learned that many sealers would not hold up to chemicals that I commonly spill in the garage. I want a sealer or coating to protect the floor. I definitely do not want to have to protect the sealer or coating from spills. So I learned to find the “chemical resistance” data sheet for the various products. Some coatings are great for resisting various chemicals, others are not. For me, resistance to gas, oil, alcohol, brake fluid and acetone were very important.

My Choice: Sanding, Densifier and Penetrating Sealer
At this point I decided I wanted to do the job myself, and I wanted to end up with a plain cement surface that would continue to breath and dry over the coming years. I still had the paint and drywall stains to deal with. Scotty of Legacy Industrial suggested renting a floor polisher and “screening” the floor. I decided I could try that.

I knew I would use a densifier after sanding as that would result is a stronger more dust free surface. But should I add a penetrating sealer top of that? Most of the penetrating sealers I found didn’t have a “chemical resistance” specification. I was very interested in Ghostshield Siloxa-Tek 8505, but that company could not provide any real chemical resistance test data.

I looked around and found that I could get the Prosoco Consolideck products locally and so I checked them out. Their tech support was excellent, and they have a product called “Concrete Protector” that is a penetrating sealer, allows vapor transmission (breathability). And the Consolideck Concrete Protector comes with this chemical resistance spec that looks very good to me. The one concern is that a penetrating sealer like this could make putting a future coating on the concrete more work (or perhaps even a problem) as they might impede the coating from adhering. But since I like the appearance of cement, I don’t think this will ever be a problem for me.

How I did it:
  • I bought a respirator mask. 
  • I rented a floor sander at home depot and bought a supply of 100 grit and 150 grit screens. (I tested the screens by hand earlier in the week with a drywall hand held sanding pad. On my steel trowelled concrete they worked well.) 
  • I bought a new powerful wet dry/vacuum cleaner, a microfiber mop with several pads, a few 1 gal concrete/masonry pump spray jug. I heard the jugs were unreliable so I bought a couple with plans to return the extras. 
  • For my 300 square foot floor I bought 2 gallons of Consolideck LS (densifier) and 2 gallons of Consolideck Concrete Protector from a local distributer. (I ended up only needing less than a gallon of the Concrete Protector.)
Before Sanding:
Note the overspray and marks.


Day 1: Sanding
Note: I wore the respirator mask and safety glasses whenever sanding or vacuuming. There is a lot of dust generated in this process. Less gets in the air than you would expect, but you do need a good mask.

My floor is about 300 square feet and is divided into 4 quadrants of about 75 square feet each by the control joints. I went one quadrant at a time with the floor sander. For each quadrant I used a fresh screen. First I made 10 passes with a 100 screen. I’d stop and vacuum occasionally to see how it was going and I used a hand sander to to get tough spots of paint or drywall mud. I also changed direction by 90 degrees occasionally. Then I made 5 passes on each quadrant with a 150 screen (with a new screen for each quadrant). And finally I made two passes over the entire floor with the 150 screen.

After the sanding I vacuumed repeatedly and then my wife mopped with a dry microfiber mop and I vacuumed the dust she pushed up. It took quite an effort to get the floor mostly free of dust.

The result was a clean and nicely smooth, but not “polished floor”.
I’d guess this took me about 4 hours of cautious sanding and vacuuming.

Day 2: Apply Prosoco Consolideck LS Densifier
It was a hot day planned in San Diego so my wife and I got up early, watched some densifier application videos and got to it. It is important that it isn’t too hot as you don’t want the densifier to dry too quickly, you want it to have some time to be absorbed into the concrete. I sprayed and she mopped. We put on one fairly heavy coat of Prosoco Consolideck LS. This was absorbed fairly quickly (minutes) so when we finished we immediately started over and applied a second coat. This time the densifier covered better so we used less. It took longer to dry, the desired 5 to 10 minutes. There were a couple spots that seemed to pool a little bit and I lightly blotted them with a microfiber cloth to prevent too much of the chemical from puddling.
This took about an hour of spraying and mopping. The two coats used about 1.5 gallons of the Consolideck LS densifier.

Some pictures after the densifier dried:



Day 3: A day off and extra time for the densifier to completely dry

Day 4: Apply Consolideck Concrete Protector
Again, a hot day was forecast for San Diego, so we started early. I sprayed the Consolideck Concrete Protector and my wife mopped. We found the concrete to be less porous after the densifier and so we didn’t need too much, I’d call it a “medium light” coat. The Concrete protector needs to dry for an hour before putting on a second coat. After about an hour and 15 minutes the concrete was dry and we applied a second coat. The second coat really didn’t need much of the Concrete Protector and we applied it very lightly. A couple hours later the surface was dry, but the directions say the the concrete needs to be protected from water for 12 hours and that it takes 48 hours for the Concrete Protector to gain it’s oil resistant properties.
Not counting the drying time between coats, this took less than an hour to spray and mop. We only needed about 0.5 gallon of the Consolideck Concrete Protector and I was able to return the extra gallon that I had purchased.

Some pictures of the finished floor:




Things I learned:
  • The chemicals and stuff costs real money. I probably spent $300-400 on the chemicals, sander rental, sanding screens, mops, spayer and other stuff. 
  • Sanding was easier than expected, but the floor sander was darn heavy (about 120 pounds) to load in my truck) 
  • I like the smooth floor that sanding created. All the little ridges and ripples from the steel troweling are gone. The floor is smooth but still high traction, it is *not* polished. 
  • Spraying and mopping was straight forward, but was best done with two people.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Baja No Pinch Tire Tool Review

I saw great reviews for this tool and purchased one hoping it would make tire changes easier. I have changed a bunch of tires with spoon style levers, and it's not that hard if you get the bead in the drop center of the rim. But tool claimed to make things easier so...

I tried this tool for the first time over the weekend and was very unhappy.

Before starting, I watched several videos of the tool being used and read the directions carefully.

But when I tried it, the tool badly cut the bead of the tire when putting it on the rim.  This happened with a relatively stiff tire, a Pirelli Scorpion XCMH. It happened right at the beginning of the installation, when putting the first "bottom" bead over the rim. At this point, perhaps the tool is being used "inside out", as the sharp edge of the tool tore the rubber. But the directions clearly describe it being used this way.
I had to discard the tire and purchase a replacement, which I installed the old way with spoons.
I do not trust this tool and will never use it again.

You can see the sharp blade on the bottom edge of the tool:

And here are the cuts it made in the tire:

This is the approximate position the tool was in when it cut the bead. When I was actually doing this the wheel was under the tire and I was pushing the bottom of the tire over the rim.

Here is a pic from underneath with the tool in the position where it cut the tire. I think it is impossible to have that sharp edge on the tool avoid the tire in this position. The sharp "lip" on the tool is very shallow, and it is going to be right against the rubber.

Obviously many people think this tool is great. Maybe they are using softer tires or just have a better technique than I do. But it ruined a brand new Pirelli for me, and I won't be using it again. Spoons aren't that hard to use, and you need them to remove the tire anyway!

Friday, July 25, 2014

Johnson Canyon, North of Bozeman Montana

I'm visiting Bozeman Montana and brought my KTM.
Yesterday, I had a great ride at Johnson Canyon! It was about 25 miles there and back, and the loop at Johnson Canyon is about 10 miles. The loop starts pretty easy, but near the top becomes pretty rocky and narrow. Again, a bit tougher than I like, being alone and traveling far from home (San Diego), but it was a fantastic ride. The meadows near the top were covered with flowers. And at the very top there was some kind of butterfly bonanza going on, there were hundreds of them flying around. An incredible experience. Frankly, I'd rate the whole experience as one of my best rides ever.
The deceptively easy beginning of Johnson Canyon:

This is a shot at a camp spot early on the Johnson Canyon loop:

Near the top the path became very narrow. Not single track, but tight for an atv and very rocky. What's with all these rocks in Montana?! Stuff like that scares me as going down is much harder than going up, at least for me. A couple turns were tight and there is are drop off at the edge of the path where recovery would be impossible. Somehow I never think to take pictures of the hardest stuff... I guess I'm too busy being scared!

Then there is this is a meadow near the top of the loop. Just a fantastic field of flowers! Still some snow in the peaks in the background. This is near 8000 feet.


I didnt take any pictures at the very top, what I now call "Butterfly Peak". I didn't think I could capture the experience like that, so I just enjoyed it.

From the top down was a workout for me. I just don't have the confidence to let any speed build up going downhill, and those trees on the side of the trail look unforgiving!
And, uhm, are those scratches on the trees bear sign? Gulp. I'm hoping those were made by a passing atv, but many of them seemed too high and not really on the trail side. I ate my energy bar quickly and go moving again.
Another shot of the trail:

Once out of the canyon it's an easy ride through the farmland back to Bozeman:

Here is a link to the track: on google maps


Friday, July 11, 2014

Twin Air Bio System Review: I'm not happy.

I got this because of the idea it's "bio - friendly". Supposedly that means you can wash it with water with their special soap. I bought the whole kit: http://www.twinair.com/usa/twin-air-bio-system. As the Twin Air site says, "The system includes BIO Liquid Power filter oil (1L), BIO Dirt Remover  (1L), a cleaning tub with cages, an oiling tub, gloves and contact cleaner."

A new filter is $29 on Amazon. Not cheap. I paid about $80 for the "cleaning and oiling kit. So financially, if you can clean the filter three of more times, it's cheaper to clean the filters than to replace them. And filters get dirty quickly on a dirt bike, so you need to replace your filter often. I bought two spare filters in addition to the one on the bike and planned on cleaning them in batches when dirty. The Twin Air Bio System Kit has enough cleaner and oil to do 5-10 filters, depending on how you do it and how clean you try to get your filters.  I got about 5 or 6 filters cleaned and oiled before I used up all the cleaner and oil. If you want to do a good job it takes at least an hour to clean a filter, and then it has to dry at least an hours (overnight is best) before oiling. And then the oil needs to dry at least a couple hours (again, overnight is best).

I've used this "Twin Air Bio System" kit about four times now (sometimes I cleaned two filters at a time).  If you are willing to spend an hour cleaning your filters, you can get them "mostly" clean. Use smoking hot water and all the detergent they recommend, which is a lot (100ml detergent for 3 liters of water). For two filters I used 6 liters of water to mostly fill the bucket and 200 ml of detergent. Squeeze the filters in the boiling hot water  and soak and then do that again every 15 minutes. Repeat until "kind of" clean. But an hour to clean the filters? And then you have to dry and oil them of course.

And I'll note; the top cage in the kit, that is supposedly used to keep the filter submerged? Doesn't work. The cage just slips up the inside of the bucket and the filter floats to the top.

I'll also note this bio cleaner is caustic. Meaning it will burn your skin. Gloves and protective eyewear are required. And it smells pretty sharp too. Be careful!

"Bio": What does that mean? It requires gloves to handle the stuff! The MSDS says: "Do not allow to enter sewers/surface or ground water." "Must not be disposed together with household garbage. Do not allow product to reach sewage system."
So what am I supposed to do with the gallon of this stuff that remains after every filter cleaning?

Here is a picture of the inside of the filter after TWO separate one hour cleanings with hot water as per the directions. All those green drops are oil left behind after the cleaning.

And here is a closeup of a patch of oil and dirt at the edge of the filter I just coundn't get out no matter how much I scrubbed.

Here is the outside of the filter, it still has some oil in the seams but it looks OK:

Filter after drying for 24 hours, oiling and drying 24 hours again:

After installing the filter, if the bike sits for a week I find green spots under the bike from dripping filter oil. And it's really tough to clean off the frame tubes. I really do squeeze all the the oil out of the filter I can and I even press it between paper towels. And then I let it dry at least 24 hours before installing it. But it still drips when the bike sits:

The kit comes with a special smaller tub for oiling the filters. The idea is you can keep the tub full of the oil between uses. However, the tub lid cracked. This oil contains volatiles, to keep it thin to spread throughout the filter. But the cracked lid will let the volatiles evaporate and escape, leaving you with oil that is too think to be effective.  If the kit had been used a lot or was many years old, I'd accept the crack. But it's only a year old and has been used only 4 times.

So the negatives:
- if you want a really clean filter, it takes work. Say an hour, and it won't be clean like new, just mostly clean. You will still have oil stuck on the filter in streaks and at the edges. And then add 2 overnights to dry the clean and then oiled filters.
- it's caustic. Be careful.
- the top cage in the kit doesn't really work to hold the filter submerged.
- "Bio": total BS.
- Drips out of the filter while the bike is parked.
- Lid cracked.
- How do you dispose of the caustic and oily cleaning solution after use?

I'm sick of this stuff. It doesn't work well for me, takes lots of time and is caustic.

Maybe I'll try "No Toil"...

Thursday, May 15, 2014

EEZOX vs Frog Lube CLP: Drop of Sweat Test




I've been testing a few firearm lubes and protectants. These work on tools as well as guns. A recent excellent test on The High Road showed excellent results with Frog Lube. Frog Lube claims to have natural ingredients and to be safe to handle. See the MSDS here.

I decided I wanted to test Frog Lube CLP against my preferred protectant EEZOX.

For my test, I use a plain steel plate that I stripped with a rotary 3m pad and then cleaned with contact cleaner.  I then marked two sections with a punch. This is similar to my previous test here.

First, I dripped the protectants/lubes on the test areas and smeared them with a finger (carefully replacing nitrile gloves to prevent contamination). I let this heavy coat sit for 4 hours in my 95+ degree garage.

After 4 hours I carefully wiped off the sections with separate paper towels. I then applied a thin layer of protectant / lube to each section and smeared it with a gloved fingertip. I made sure this was a thin but completely covering coat. I let this coat dry for 24 hours.

After the 24 hours I carefully wiped off the sections with separate paper towels. I then used a single small Otis gun patch to apply a couple drops of protectant, just as I would to my rifle. I took a video to show this:

After 24 hours I inspected the plates. The EEZOX side looked to be dry and the Frog Lube CLP side seemed to be shiny and a bit thicker than I would typically leave on a real weapon or piece of equipment. I had collected some sweat at the gym...

And I put a single drop of sweat on each test panel. On the left panel you can see how the drop on the EEZOX protected metal immediately spread out.  On the right panel the drop on the Frog Lube protected metal stays as a small bead.

It has been hot in San Diego, it was over 95 degrees and 20% humidity, so the drops evaporated quickly.

This is 1 hour later...
The EEZOX has dried all white. I'm guessing this is the salt and minerals.

And this is the Frog Lube. It is a bit brown on the edges, I assume this is a bit of rust.

At this point I added a second drop of sweat to each panel. Here is a video of me adding those drops:


The next day I took some pictures of the results. EEZOX on the left and Frog Tube on the right:


Close up of the EEZOX side:

Close up of the Frog Lube Side:

At this point I decided it was time to try and clean the plate to see what stain / corrosion would come off easily. I used a paper towel to wipe off the sections and polish the sections:


Here is a close up of the EEZOX side after wiping and polishing:

Here is a close up of the Frog Lube side after wiping and polishing:

With the plates wiped and polished, I decided to add a third drop. Here is a video inspection of the third drop after it has dried (several hours after the drop was applied). You can see the marks from the first two drops after polishing compared to the untouched third drop.

And then I tried to clean the sections with the respective "CLP" products:

And now on to the final results. It was over 100 degrees in the garage!

1st picture of the final cleaned EEZOX side:

2nd picture from a different angle of the final cleaned EEZOX side:

1st picture of the final cleaned Frog Lube CLP side:

2st picture from a different angle of the final cleaned Frog Lube CLP side:

Comments
Neither the EEZOX nor the Frog Lube CLP completely protected the steel plate. Both left rings of corrosion even after polishing with a paper towel and cleaning with more of the product. The products did perform differently; the EEZOX let the drop of sweat spread out and dry more quickly leaving a ring that appeared white. The Frog Lube CLP kept the drop as a bead and it dried more slowly and left a brown spot of corrosion.
Personally, I prefer the EEZOX as it is a dry protectant and did not allow any "brown" corrosion. I did like that the Frog Lube was more "green", but I did not like the oily feel to the coating or minty smell.